I woke up to rain and thus decided to spend the morning in. I was tired of fighting the puddles. I finally went out and visited the DvD store one final time and picked up a few new releases.

My stash of goodies!

I stopped by Carrefour on the way back to the hostel and practically raided the imports section. One of the big perks of Qingdao is the abundant Import Sections. Its amazing what a tub of Land O’Lakes Butter can do for ones moral. And don’t get me started about discovering the Creamy Chocolate Betty Crocker Icing hidden away at RT.

I hung out in the lounge until I headed to the Station to catch my train. The sunny was cheeky enough to come out two hours before I had to catch the train home. Not enough time for the sand to dry or lug everything down and back before heading home. So I conclude my week at the beach with never once touching the sand. Ahh well. There is always next year I suppose. After going 8 months without the beach whats another 10?

As I got to the station I realized I’d been lax in picture taking so I thought I’d snap a few of the station. I rarely take pictures of the things I see all the time but figured the rest of you might enjoy those views.

Qingdao Train Station

Shopping Across from the Train Station

Ticket Office and Waiting Rooms

The trip home was pleasant as I purchased tickets for the fast train. I don’t mind the slow train going but getting home I just want to get there quickly. I was slightly aggravated to find the sun shinning in Weifang as I had hoped for that weather all week in Qingdao.

Vacation is officially over and now onwards to a new semester. It all starts tomrrow with the official meeting with the Dean.

I hope every one’s summer was splendid. I can hardly believe mine is finally coming to a close.

Today was far less productive. It rained practically all day only letting up for about a half an hour at a time. I spent the morning looking for the Book Nook, a foreign run bookstore downtown. I didn’t manage to find it but came across another small bookstore Sonoplace hidden away in an Alley. I spent the afternoon at the hostel enjoying the atmosphere and putting together ideas for the coming semester. In the evening I went out searching for the Indian Restuarunt everyone keeps mentioning.

I discovered Google maps works in China and got bus directions from the hostel. I had an idea for the general area of the restaurant but got completely turned around by the bus route Google suggested. I finally orientated by self again and stopped by the DvD store for directions. It turns out Fatima Indian Restaurant is just one alley north of my favorite DvD store. Couldn’t be more convenient. I know know where I’ll be stopping after EVERY trip to the DvD store.

The rain was still coming down as I walked back to the bus stop. But I’ve finally learned the trick. Always carry a spare pair of flip-flops with your umbrella. I don’t mind the rain its just the wet socks and shoes I detest so if you eliminate those the puddles become fun again. I got to the hostel and hung around the lounge reading and working until about 10. I’m going to miss wifi and being able to write posts in bed.

I can only hope for beach weather tomorrow although I’m not going to hold by breath. I should have looked at the weather forecast before booking a week at the beach but with the weather being so blasted hot for the last three weeks straight really how was I to know it would take a turn for the stormy this week.

I would love to sit at the beach at least once this week but oh well what can you do when the gods conspire against you!

The Bridge Market view from the center

Taking out my list I decided to start this morning with the Bridge Market Victoria told me about. She went with one of her students last year and was impressed with the variety of goods or to be more specific a special ingredient for family soups, opium pods. Her student had informed her it was illegal to add more then two to any dish but it was perfectly legal to add one or two. Victoria asked what would happen if someone added three. The student grew confused and said “but that’s against the law. Why would they do that?” Victoria just chuckled. “You’re right why would they do that?” The market is a large out door market that is located beneath five consecutive bridges. It has been held daily for decades And increases in size on the 7th and 9th of the lunar calendar. I went to find the market with high anticipation.

Yeah I'm pretty sure this is dog. I don't know any animal with teeth like that besides a dog.

So many delicious spices!

The final bridge was less crowded

I caught the 363 out to the middle of nowhere and quickly found the steep stairs I’d been warned about. I descended into the market via the seafood section and was assaulted with the accompanying aromas. I must admit I still giggle when I get hit by spitting clams, I’ll never say the same for spitting men though. A drawback of traveling alone is there is no one to make the best of dashed expectations with. The market lacked the unique old oriental atmosphere I had anticipated. I walked to the end rather quickly as without friends I’m no shopper and really had only gone for the atmosphere. Ah well. I did find the more interesting sections on my return trip on the far side. The meat stalls are always fascinating for one. I think I’ve seen my first skinned dog. I tried to take a picture discreetly but got q few laughs all the same. I only managed to stumble across the spice stalls at the end. I don’t know exactly what the pods looked like but I think I found them. I wish I knew my spices I wanted to buy some just fir the sake of it. I caught the bus back and decided to take. Break at the hostel before heading out for the afternoon.

The Governor's Mansion aka The Qingdao Guesthouse

I was having a hard time getting directions to the Governor’s Mansion unilateral I realized I’d been referring to it incorrectly. Only foreigners call it by that, the Chinese call it the Qingdao Guesthouse. It was officially changed by The Party soon after it had been confiscated by the “occupying German forces”. The Guesthouse was nestled on the side of Signal Hill deep within the German Quarter. It was used as a guesthouse for visiting Party officials throughout much of it’s history until it was turned into a museum and opened to the public in1999. It was constructed around 1907 and was turn into the Party’s guesthouse in the late 30’s.

Now doesn't that furniture just scream, PHOTO-OP!

The museum is an empty house containing a sprinkling of European furniture and an abundance of placards commemorating the various Party officials who resided there. As it was designed and constructed for German residents one is almost transported to a European residence then inevitably you are drawn back to China with the following commotion. Now only in China would a mother have the audacity to wave off a museum guard insisting her bare bummed child was justified in lounging on the roped off leather sofa for a photo-op. The guard obviously didn’t feel the photo-op worth his job but as he went for the child she darted around the room before crossing back over the rope to her mother. I had to stifle a laugh as the mother was leaning over the “Do Not Touch” sign. The poor guard was having a day and a half as only minutes later he was forced to approach a couple who having grown curious about a German made bureau were thoroughly examining it’s compartments. Ropes and signs have no sway with the Chinese tourist as again the “Do Not Touch the Cultural Relics” sign was inches from her head. Maybe we’ve been wrong all this time regarding the Chinglish signs. Maybe they are just as ambiguous and poorly worded in Chinese thus the general confusion and lack of observance on the part of the Chinese. That’s not to say it’s not terribly frustrating when a disobedient Chinese Tourist goes unnoticed while the offending foreigner seconds later is thoroughly castigated for not following the unintelligible signage.

This piano was manufactured by a first class master in Germany.

The Foyer was huge

Of course the plaque noting all the famous Party officials who have stayed here.

As I left the mansion I couldn’t help but feel the same forced effort at remembrance and immortalizing of the glorious beginning when I visit Party sites.

An interesting detail within the foyer

I didn't know what this was but as it was a German Governor's House, I'm going with Bomb Shelter

View of the Harbor from Signal Hill

As I had overestimated the time for visiting I found myself with practically an entire afternoon to spare. As I was already near the entrance to Signal Hill Park I decided to go. It had begun to sprinkle but soon stopped. As I ascended the Hill I enjoyed the breathtaking harbor views and gorgeous German Quarter that surrounds it. I found a secluded bench at the top to rest on until it started to rain. I rushed to the observatory to escape the rain, unfortunately I was just behind a group of Chinese Tourist. There are few things worse then being stuck behind heir tour group. They are always loud pushy impolite and never even try to hide the fact that you the foreigner are what they are taking a picture of. Really, come on at least I angle my camera towards the scenery I don’t point and laugh as if I’m at the zoo photographing the wildlife. The observation tower rotated so I sate through two rotations hoping to outlast the rain. I finally gave up and headed back down the hill.

Governor's Mansion from Signal Hill

Seven Dragon Fountain - based on a folklore

From the Observatory atop Signal Hill

Two of the three Observatories

The Old Protestant after the same architectural style as the Governor's Mansion

As the rain only continued to fall harder I sought refuge in the Protestant Church down the block. I climbed the bell tower in time to hear the bell strike five. As I walked the grounds I came across this sign and just had to laugh. What exactly it’s suppose to mean I don’t know but what it brings to my mind is not very pleasant “Religious activities were rehabilitated here in November 1980″.

The Original Bell

The rain finally began to subside so I headed downtown for dinner.
I went to my favorite restaurant for dinner, the Diner. I had a more than obliging waitress, Michelle, who called to confirm directions to an Indian restaurant for tomorrow evening for me. She even gave me explicit directions to the Golden Beach I have been told so much about. Dinner was delicious as always. Pasta carbonara with a side of French fries. I know pasta and French fries aren’t exactly kosher but their French fries are gourmet and I just couldn’t resist. I caught a bus back and turned in early yet again. I did manage to make an acquaintance. The occupant of the bunk opposite me asked to borrow my iPod charger. I suppose the rest all think I’m mute as I keep to myself.

KaiYu Hostel - Great Location and always clean.

Thus far the trip has been wonderful. The train coming was on time, not crowded and clean. The weather was not what I had anticipated but really nothing to complain about. Leaving high humidity at 98*s for high 70*s and an ocean breeze isn’t going to kill me. I was hoping for a little more sun for tanning purposes but the week is still young.

I’d opted for a quiet week in Qingdao over Beijing as I wanted a relaxing week that didn’t require much mental exertion for getting around. I quickly reached the hostel and checked in. I swear they have me in the system tagged for bed G it’s the dorm bed they always give me. It’s a great bunk and I settled in to an empty dorm. I’ve discovered the perfect traveling bag, my big red one I packed for the day and set out to tackle my list of must-dos.

Jimo was first, Rolexes for Victoria and if I’m at Jimo it’s required I stop by Sunny’s so I picked up pearls for presents and actually showed some restraint for once and didn’t buy anything for me. I did stop by the perfume shop to get a bottle of Burberry Weekend. Katie had picked some up in Xi’an and I just loved it. I bought a Chinese burrito from a stand and for the first time contemplated the probability of food poisoning but my cast iron stomach seems to be doing fine still.

The Protestant Church over by Jimo

After my rather successful shopping trip I wandered around the old German neighborhoods and found the Protestant Church. In my opinion Christian churches in China always have a deserted feel even if they are in service.

The first real Graffiti I've seen in China

A path along the hill within the German Quarter

You never know what you will come across on a walk.

Beehives I stumbled across

Monument at May 4th Square

I walked down to the beach and caught a bus uptown. I stoped at May 4th Square and enjoyed people watching. The sun came out for a bit and I read.  I began to wonder if I’d been presumptuous in planning four days in Qingdao with no set itinerary. I’m always complaining I don’t see enough of Qingdao as a tourist spot but I don’t treat it as such and thus failed to do my homework. I began to worry I would get bored and stick to my usual spots. So I made a list of spots I’d wanted to visit in the past. That’s what I’ll do.

Water activities are a favorite in China - Every major square as some sort of activity

The site of the Olympic Sailing events in Qingdao

Last week I’d tried to give Brad directions to our favorite DVD store and so I went to see how off I was as they had been unable to find it. I felt terrible Was about five blocks off. For future reference it’s a block east of MyKal not Carrefour. I stopped by but as I wasn’t invited to the back room I saved my money and headed to the grocery store. I qued behind an Egyptian who was shopping for could only be a splendid meal. He offered an invitation, no Mom I didn’t accept. We chatted fir a while and he suggested a quite beach to the east near Lao Shan  for a pleasant day.

I bought Subway for dinner and headed back to May 4th Square to enjoy it.I returned early and read in the lounge for a while. Oh the ease of wi-fi I quickly discovered the wi-fi on the third floor and sent about an hour online. I’ve up until his point only appreciated my iPod for it’s offline features wi-fi this thing and you couldn’t pry it from my dead body.

I soon went to sleep with only one roommate in. Oh the wonders of a sleeping mask. I had been too lazy to retrieve my earplugs and paid for it as each other occupant returned.

Well I’m headed off to Qingdao in the morning. I’ll be there until Thursday so although I will attempt a post or two I’m not going to stress about it.

Ahh Vacation!

I’ve finished my Summer job and will begin teaching at the University next week. So this week is me, my kindle and the sea! What a lovely combination.

Of course as with most trips I’ve been stressing about this one for the past week. Started putting things aside a few days ago and have repacked twice tonight. I am proud to say I’m learning to be a lighter packer. I’m not yet a light packer but I am lighter than before.

I'm I think I'm getting slightly obsessive when it comes to packing.

I have a one week vacation coming up between my summer job and starting at the University. Boy do I have plans. Originally I was going to be productive and prepare for classes but with last weeks events I need a vacation and nice long beach vacation at that. 

So plans are already forming…leave Tuesday afternoon spend the evening tracking down the rumored Indian restaurant and enjoy a cool evening in the city. Wednesday maybe the Governors Mansion in the morning then the rest of the day on the beach until I’m crispy then the Diner for dinner.  Thursday shopping – Jimo for Victoria’s Rolexes and of course Carrefour for the imports, time to stock up. 

Yes that sounds good. Well off to book a bed before the hostels all fill up, I’m NOT dealing with that situation again.

We took a day trip to see the Le Shan Buddha. The drive to Le Shan was beautiful. The countryside in the Southwest is so different from Shandong. It is lush and green with various crops.

Tea Fields covered the hills

The river often floods

The Leshan Giant Buddhawas built during the Tang Dynasty (618–907). It is carved out of a cliff face that lies at the confluence of the Minjiang, Dadu and Qingyi rivers in the southern part of Sichuan province in China, near the city of Leshan. The stone sculpture faces Mount Emei, with the rivers flowing below his feet. It is the largest carved stone Buddha in the world and at the time of its construction was the tallest statue in the world.

The largest Buddha in the world

The Leshan Buddha has been greatly affected by the pollution caused by the unchecked industry in the area.

Stairs asecnding the mountain

The Gang

 On the trip we met two couples who have been teaching English for the past year in China. Sue and her husband taught in Xi’an.

The gang and Sue Wood

After leaving Xi’an we met up with the tour group in Chengdu Saturday morning.

 That after noon we went to the Giant Panda Base. Really quick a few things I’ve learned about Pandas: 1. they are very picky eaters, there are 5 varieties of bamboo of which the Panda will only eat one. 2. they are temperamental when it comes to weather and when the weather gets warm they must stay in the AC. 3. If they give birth to twins they will only raise one and leave the second to die. 4. They refuse to adapt to their surroundings which leaves some scientist wondering why we aren’t taking a hint from mother nature and letting them go extinct.

I’ve come to decide they are just the supermodels of the animal kingdom which leaves every other animal wondering why they get so much attention when they refuse to follow the rest of the group. I’m not sorry if I see, cynical I’ve never been a real animal lover and quite frankly they are just not as cute and cuddly as I thought they were.

The Great Panda, or should I say the Great Picky Panda

No if only I could afford to spend my days like that all would be right with the world

Not the enclosures I would have imagined. But then again I grew up with the Chaffee Zoo in Fresno

The Red Panda is definitely more entertaining to look at.

Yes, I'm going to go with a member of the raccoon family on this one.

The Reserve was beautiful

 After the Panda reserve we had a wonderful dinner and then went to see a Sichuan Variety show. The different acts highlighted the various arts popular in the province as well as the China as a whole. The fist act was that of Beijing Opera. Before I’d felt inclined to go to a Beijing Opera performance as it was a traditional art of China, now I think I’ll leave that ticket available for some who, how shall I say it, appreciates that kind of ear splitting, headache inducing performance.

What's a traditional showcase with out Beijing Opera

 The Shadow puppets were quite impressive and I felt like a little kid taking pictures of each and every one. Does anyone else see Scooby Doo or is that just me?

Now that's an impressive shadow dog.

My favorite shadow puppet

 I was grateful our tour guide explained this act prior to the show as I appreciated much more understanding the context. It is a common belief that in the Sichuan province the women wear the pants. In this act the man arrived home late, after losing his shirt in yet another gambling game his wife makes him go through a series of repent acts. Each act must be complete with a full oil lamp balanced atop his head.

And who says men can't be trained...

 The first is a reenactment of a famous dialogue between a husband and wife, he must play both parts with acceptable gestures, voice inflection and so on. Another feat is that of crawling under the two benches and back again without touching the lamp with his hands.

Quite a feat, I was enthralled.

 A musical number was preformed on the Er Hu.

The Er Hu, it is beautiful to listen to.

 Face Changing is a unique performance in China. I once watched a TV special on the reigning master of face changing. He can do over 100 face changes in a single performance. The performer changes the mask so quickly it seems as if it is done by magic.

Traditional Face Changing Show

 The next morning we went to LaShan. When we returned we browsed through the Old Town in enjoying the low altitude for one final night.

My new obsession - hair sticks

Old Town Chengdu, pricey but a wonderful atmosphere.

ummm...not much I can say

 That evening we were on our own for dinner. We stumbles across a BBQ restaurant and we decided to give it a try. We didn’t exactly understand what we had gotten ourselves into but enjoyed it all the same. We soon realized it was an all you could eat buffet and Thomas and I decided to make the most of the meat selection.

All you can eat smorgasbord, and only 29kaui

Okay so not exactly following any health codes but....

 

 Katie, as a culinary student unfortunately knows all the health code rules and was horrified to see the conditions from which we selected the food. But in the end we all knew we’d eaten worse here so as long as we have Imodium who really cares.

I must admit it was a delcious meal. The seasonings were delicious and all you can eat meat, I was in heaven.

My two week escape around Southwest China started in the ancient city of Xi’an.    

We left Weifang Wednesday morning and took the train to Qingdao. Katie wanted to hit up Jimo one final time and with to objections we all tagged along.  I ended up purchasing 3 more pearl necklaces. We caught a taxi to the airport and had a rather pleasant even more surprising, rather long conversation with the taxi driver. Between the three of us, Katie, Thomas and I we understood about 85% of what was said.    

Our plane to Xi’an landed early evening and we caught the shuttle into town. We soon found our hostel which was conveniently located at the south gate, great location for taxi drop off, Nan Men 南门 is easy to say and remember. We tried to find the large antique market but must have missed it as we ended up wandering narrow alleys with less than pleasant aromas.    

We turned in for the night and soon discovered why the room was so cheap. NO AC. We had figured booking the basement would be cooler but we hadn’t taken into account we were next to the laundry and boiler rooms. To keep things pleasant lets just say I’ll be more than happy to pay the extra 25 kuai a night next time.    

As usual I had my activities for the day booked solid and started early.    

First stop: Small Wild Goose Pagoda -    

Small Wild Goose Pagoda Bell Tower

 The Small Wild Goose Pagoda, is one of two significant pagodas in the city of Xi’an. The Small Wild Goose Pagoda was built between 707–709, during the Tang Dynasty under Emperor Zhongzong of Tang (r 705–710). The pagoda stood 45 m (147 ft) until the 1556 Shaanxi earthquake. The earthquake shook the pagoda and damaged it so that it now stands at a height of 43 m (141 ft) with fifteen levels of tiers.  The pagoda has a brick frame built around a hollow interior, and its square base and shape reflect the building style of other pagodas from the era.    

During the Tang Dynasty, the Small Wild Goose Pagoda stood across a street from its mother temple, the Dajianfu Temple. Pilgrims brought sacred Buddhist writings to the temple and pagoda from India, as the temple was one of the main centers in Chang’an for translating Buddhist texts. The temple was older than the pagoda. The temple was originally called the Daxianfusi or Great Monastery of Offered Blessings by Zhongzong, until it was renamed Dajianfusi by Empress Wu Zetian in 690.  (wikipedia.org)    

Small Goose Pagoda

Memorial Steele with in the Temple Compound

After visiting the Small Wild Goose Pagoda we went to the Shaanxi Museum. It was a beautiful collection of artifacts collected throughout the province. Shaanxi Province is known for its neolithic cultures and long history of settlement. We got a preview of the Terra-cotta warriors and many magnificent bronzes.    

Before heading back into town we stopped at a small Temple mentioned in my guide book. It was a peaceful experience. The temple was under going major renovations but we came during lunch as there was no one working at the time. It is always amazing how even though we were in the middle of a busy neighborhood the grounds were peaceful.  

Major renovations were underway at this small temple.

 We headed to the Muslim corner for lunch and an afternoon of sites. First we strolled through the shopping streets as we mede our wat to the Great Mosque.  

The back market streets, aka Tourist traps

The old town shopping area had an upbeat thriving atmostphere that was a pleasure to stroll through.

^{The Great Mosque – Xi’an}

Although it was Muslim there was a strong Chinese influence

After visiting the mosque we continued to wander through the Muslim Quarter looking for a place to eat. The Muslim food is the pride of Xi’an and we were not about to pass that chance up. 

Umm, should someone say something?

We decided on fresh pulled noodles in a spicy broth. Yumm 

Fresh pulled noodles, nothing beats food from Xijiang - Uyghur people

We spent the evening roaming the town and turned in early for a good night’s rest, or atleast as good as one can get when sweating like a pig.   

Friday was the Terra Cotta Warriors. We had gotten directions from the hostel on how to take a bus out to save money. We left in what we thought would be plenty of time but well nothing ever goes as planned. We finally reached the Train Station and ran like crazy to the bus area. We spotted our bus and made a mad dash to the door. What a relief, we made it with two mins to spare, no exaggeration. I was horrified to discover had we missed it we would of had to wait an hour for the next. We settled in for the hour out to the site. It was well worth all the hassle and worry.    

Pit 1 - Infantry & Calvary

The Terracotta Army is the Terra Cotta Warriors and Horses of Qin Shi Huang the First Emperor of China. The terracotta figures, dating from 210 BC, were discovered in 1974 by some local farmers near Xi’an, Shaanxi province, China near the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor. The figures vary in height (183–195 cm – 6 ft–6 ft 5in), according to their roles, with the tallest being the generals. The figures include warriors, chariots, horses, officials, acrobats, strongmen, and musicians. Current estimates are that in the three pits containing the Terracotta Army there were over 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots with 520 horses and 150 cavalry horses, the majority of which are still buried in the pits. (wikipedia.org)      

Each are distinct and spectacular in its own right

Excavation and remodeling is still underway and will continue to be so for years to come.

The work done is phenomenal.

 The opportunity to see this piece of Art History was truly spectacular. No slide can ever compare with the opportunity to see it first hand.     

The site of the well

Pit 2

The world famous "Archer"

Pit 3 - Command Headquarters

After a long morning at the Terra Cotta Warriors we decided to take a leisurely bike ride around the city wall. Well for the other three it was leisurely, I was just grateful I made it.   

Xi'an City Wall - Restored obviously

9km once around

For the record I’ve never claimed to be athletic. You rented the bikes for 1½ hours, for 20kuai after that each additional 10min was 5 kuai I was more than happy to pay the extra but as we were all on the same ticket I wouldn’t put it past the Chinese to charge everyone for my lack of athleticism. So the last thirty mins was a made push to avoid paying everyones late fee. I did it, and true to their character not one of them made me feel bad for falling behind.    

Xi’an was a wonderful city. We lucked out with beautiful weather; it had remained in the 80’s each day with cloud cover. We had be worried as Victoria had gone the week before and the weather had not dropped below 95 the entire time. I happily have crossed off yet another item from my bucket list!